Back in the days when hunt tests were just starting, judges threw everything they could into a set of marks to make them look like hunting as opposed to field trials. Some of the hunting type things commonly seen included running out of boats, long quartering tests, or sending a dog out of completely encircling holding blind.  Most of these are seldom seen or gone due to safety issues and time constraints. The walk up is one of the hunting type situations that has become an integral part of hunt tests, so much so that it is required in Master, and more than frequently seen in Junior and Senior. 

A walk up is a situation where the dog walks at its handlers side while birds are unexpectedly thrown and shot. The walk up eliminates the traditional field trial marking situation, where the dog is shown gun stations on the line prior to marks being thrown. The walk up is more like hunting in that it approaches the element of surprise that is true hunting. However, in real life it is a rare situation that is anything at all like the walk ups of hunt tests. In real hunting a walk up is almost always an accidental occurrence. We are usually sitting in a blind with our dog waiting for ducks, geese or even dove, or quartering a field in pursuit of a pheasant. The situation where a dog is walking at heel and sees a bird shot in front of it would most likely happen while walking to or from an assigned field. I remember a particular instance when walking down a refuge road and several birds popped out of the cattail filled ditch on the side. It was one of those weekends that was open for both duck and pheasant and both specie were involved. Two birds were shot, a duck on the other side of the ditch, and a pheasant that flew in front of us and fell on the other side of the road. That was a real double and a real walk up. 

Such realism is difficult to simulate in hunt tests, and while we are trying to be hunting like, we are testing dogs. The walk up has become a valuable tool in testing dogs. When judges set up a test and add a walk up to the picture they are doing more than fulfilling a requirement (for Master) or adding a hunting element, they are giving themselves another key to evaluation. When a dog approaches the working area during a walk up a judge will be able to observe control (an integral part of the trainability score) and alertness (an important part of style). A dog that lacks either can fail a test based solely on a walk up. Walk ups can be expected and found at all three hunt test levels, so be prepared. 

How does a walk up differ from the standard approach of walking to the line with our dog at heel and stopping at a pre-designated line and commanding our dog to sit? In a walk up situation there is no real line, but rather an area or approach path that the judges have determined should be followed. This may be marked in some way, but there is nothing that says “Stop Here!” The judges will have determined a marker in their heads where either you or your dog must be at when they begin signaling for birds, calls or shots. It doesn’t matter whether it is you or your dog that is there first, the action will start.  At the time the judges presented their scenario they will have given instructions as to when a steadying command can be given. Usually the command sit, stay or blast on the whistle can be given when the first call or shot is heard. Be warned, (legal or not) there are judges out there that will want you to continue heeling the entire time marks are thrown, or to stop as one goes down and continue walking until another is thrown and the release command is given. The key thing to be aware of here is to follow the judges instructions and keep walking until the appropriate time. 

It should be obvious that there are several issues we are dealing with when discussing walk ups. First, a dog must walk to the line under control and stop immediately when told. Secondly, a dog needs to be paying attention to the situation. Finally a plan is needed so we can approach the working area (or the line) with our dog oriented so that it can get the best possible view of the marks and obscure anything that might distract from this objective. 

When training we are usually so concerned with the marks or blinds set up that we forget the little things that can make or break our performance. We go to a test feeling confident that our dog will do well and discover that the judges have included a 20 yard walk up with an honor. The usual response is “But I ‘ve never trained on that before!”  Now is the time to make walk ups a part of your training. The mistake most of us make anytime something new is added to the mix is that we set up a difficult training test and then try a first time walk up. We usually end up getting frustrated because the walk up was a failure and as a consequence our dog never marked a throw. 

The key to developing good walk ups is to break our concepts into their simplest components. Take a serious look at how your dog heels to the line. If your dog is always five steps ahead, way to the side or lags behind, this situation needs to be corrected before any progress can be made. Quite simply a dog is either not going to see the marks or be out of control when the birds start going down. Concentrate on improving heeling not only when going to and from the line when training, but with heeling drills at home. Go back to heeling fundamentals, on lead, with a heeling stick and with electronic collar enforcement.  Make a point of setting up training sessions where you do nothing put heel up to the line and back, past birds, people and other dogs. Forget about the marks. This is a control issue that must be dealt with before you can go further.  When our heeling is where we want it, walk to the line and give your dog a mark. 

Another issue we need to touch on is steadiness. If our dog is in Junior we have the advantage of being able to use a slip cord to keep control.  But if we are in Senior or Master and our dog has a problem with steadiness it will only get worse with a walk up. The control work put into our heeling may help. But on a walk up the dog has no time to be gotten under control or take its time with a sit. It must stop as soon as it hears the command!   While a sit is not required, stopping is and in training always make your dog sit. Quick sit drills can be done in the yard, first on lead, with a stick, or whatever you use. Demand nothing other than an immediate response when training. Correct for a break on a walk up just as you would for any other training situation. 

Let’s say there’s nothing wrong with where our dog is when going to the line, but they really aren’t paying attention and when you actually get to the line their nose is on the ground, or they are looking at you instead of the test area.. In this instance you must teach your dog to look and be prepared. During a training session set up one short station that is fairly close. Initially this station should be very visible, later you can hide it behind a blind or whatever might naturally be in the field. As you approach the line have the thrower start yelling or blow a duck call. Continue walking and tell your dog to mark. Remember you can talk to your dog as you approach the line and until the steadying command is given. When your dog is looking in that direction signal to have the mark thrown. Repeat this until your dog is coming to the line anticipating that something will be happening and they are looking for a mark. Keep it simple and concentrate on the concept. 

Finally we need to work on the approach and angle taken to the line. If a marking test is a double with the first mark to our left at 90 yards and the second mark is a flyer to our right at 40 yards, the tendency would be for our dog to key in on the shorter flyer mark. In order for our dog to get a good look at that longer mark you need to walk towards the left side of the working area and try to keep your dog from becoming engrossed with the flyer. In training, set up two to three stations. Again start out with fairly short distances, and visible throwers. Practice coming out of a blind and walk with the intent of keying in on different stations. Reward a good attentive walk up with marks. When you and your dog have mastered this make your situations more difficult with long and short stations and visible and hidden throwers.